The Thai Bistro: Cultured Cuisine
by Michelle Troutman

"All the girls know how to cook in Thailand," says Thai Bistro owner Thisakorn Allen. Born and raised in Thailand, from a family of nine brothers and sisters, Allen cites her Vietnamese father and her Thai mother as influences on her cooking.

She began her professional cooking career when she came to the U.S. 17 years ago, at Jia's Cafe in Boston, which had received five stars from The Boston Globe . While there, she learned how to make Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, and Japanese cuisine. Eight years later, she moved to Winslow, where she briefly owned The Asian Cafe before selling it to one of her brothers. She then moved on to Brunswick to open The Asian Grill, which received a five-star review from a Portland-based restaurant critic. She ran it for four years, before deciding to open The Thai Bistro in 2006.

One of the things Allen likes most about running her own business is that she gets to do everything herself and everything is homemade. She likes to see people who really enjoy the food "go into heaven."

"Orn" is married to Wichai Tatiyanunthaporn, and they both run the restaurant together, essentially as chiefs, cooks, and bottle washers. Their 22-year-old daughter Chutima helped design their menus.

Compared to other types of food, Allen says the cuisine The Thai Bistro serves is better; "it's not too greasy, and really healthy." She believes another factor in their success is the consistent quality of the fresh food they serve, from local and Boston-based suppliers, which is free from MSG (monosodium glutamate), an amino acid used as a flavor enhancer and a condiment in Chinese and Japanese food. They alter the spice in the food according to taste; diners can choose from mild to medium and to hot.

Appetizers include Crab Rangoon, rolls filled with vegetables, pork, or shrimp, tempura with shrimp, chicken, or vegetables. Among the soups are Tom Yum Noodle, and Pho, with noodles and flank steak. They serve salads with seafood, chicken, pork, or beef. Entrees and Chef's Specials include roasted duck (Supreme Duck), "crispy duck" (Basil Duck), "lightly battered duck" served over assorted vegetables (Duck Curry), Chicken Teriyaki, and Prik Khing, string beans, carrots, and bell peppers in a spicy sauce topped with lime leaves.

Right now, Korean cuisine is really popular, such as the Okdol Bibimbab, rice with marinated mixed vegetables topped with a fried egg and Korean chili paste. Other favorites are the Pad Thai, stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, bean sprouts, and peanuts on top, and the Drunken Noodle, rice noodles with eggs, assorted vegetables, bean sprouts, and basil leaves.

They offer lunchtime diners their choices of vegetarian, chicken, pork, or beef, shrimp, scallops, or salmon, and other entrees, such as Pad Thai and a variety of curries, in a bento box or Japanese boxed lunch format, which also includes rice, two crabs rangoon, two Thai rolls, salad, and a vegetable soup.

They also receive take out orders, by phone and by fax.

The Thai Bistro at 147 Main Street is open from 11:00am to 9:30pm Monday through Thursday (11:00am to 3:00pm lunch; 3:00pm to 9:30pm dinner), from 11:00am to 10:00pm Friday and Saturday (11:00am to 3:00pm lunch; 3:00pm to 10:00pm dinner), and for dinner on Sunday from 4:00pm to 9:30pm: (207) 872-2200. Fax: (207) 872-6600. www.watervillethaibistro.com.

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